> … it proposes to require the same exact ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection that makes you push that little button on your bathroom outlet every time the curling iron won’t heat up.
Specifically if your GFCI in the bathroom (or anywhere) keeps tripping it’s because something is wrong with your wiring or something plugged into the outlet.
It took some restraint to not use all caps in part of that sentence.
> Specifically if your GFCI in the bathroom (or anywhere) keeps tripping it’s because something is wrong with your wiring or something plugged into the outlet.
Unfortunately this is not quite true. For two-prong plugs, yes, it is 100% accurate. However larger devices with grounded plugs, especially heavier machinery, will typically contain a line filter with Y capacitors running line to ground. This shows up as a tiny leakage current, which some GFCIs will detect (because it really is leaking) even though this is a nuisance trip (because it is completely safe and normal operation). That's part of where the 30mA trip specification for certain types of non-normal-residential-circuit comes from.
A pair of matched Y capacitors on a 240V appliance from a single phase supply will cancel each other out. This doesn’t help people with 208V who are using two out of three phases, though.
edit: 120V is not immune. I once worked on a project involving powering equipment in a Faraday case at 120V. The mandatory filter (to prevent the wire from conducting emissions out of the cage) instantly tripped GFCI.
The right solution IMO would have been one of:
a) A better filter that doesn’t pass 50-60Hz. This is doable in theory, but I’ve never seen one.
b) A transformer or other isolated supply outside the cage, with a GFCI inside the cage (to protect the people who may enter to touch the equipment).
c) A transformer outside, not necessarily right next to the cage, supplying the inside with two opposite-phase lines at 60Vrms each. No net leakage! This would require that everything inside accept such a supply, which rules out anything that wants a real neutral.
d) I bet someone could design a transformer with a shield between the windings that would integrate with the Faraday cage. Power would couple in inductively through the shield. Common-mode RFI would have a very hard time escaping, and different mode RFI could be filtered and probably matters quite a bit less anyway.
Of course, the actual solution chosen by the site’s electrical people was rather less classy.
An ideal transformer will give you perfect galvanic isolation. A GFI therefore becomes useless on transformer secondaries, because there is no way to complete a circuit through earth back to the transformer. If you have earth grounding of stuff inside the cage (not just the cage itself)... then you have a very strange test going on.
Of course, real transformers are not ideal. This:
> I bet someone could design a transformer with a shield between the windings that would integrate with the Faraday cage. Power would couple in inductively through the shield. Common-mode RFI would have a very hard time escaping, and different mode RFI could be filtered and probably matters quite a bit less anyway.
exists and it is called an "electrostatic shield" inside a transformer. Magnetics people do not like to make these, but they are a standard enough request that they'll do it for you and the only complaints you'll get will be from the people on your side who see the invoice. Electrostatic shields are also not perfect but they help tremendously. The shield connection usually comes out of the potted assembly on another wire so you can hook it up as required.
Protip: if you are ever trying to replace or redesign equipment that uses an electrostatically shielded transformer, do ask why they went to that effort. Don't just try to use a normal transformer and then wonder why you can't get it working right... despite man-months of effort....
> An ideal transformer will give you perfect galvanic isolation. A GFI therefore becomes useless on transformer secondaries, because there is no way to complete a circuit through earth back to the transformer.
Yes and no. You declare one of the secondary wires to be neutral and the other to be the “line”, and you connect “ground” to “neutral” in exactly one place. And the GFI monitors the sum of the line and neutral current, but not the ground. And you connect your equipment chassis to ground via the wire that, in the US, is green and is called, in the NEC, the “equipment grounding conductor”. And the GFCI will protect you if you are touching a grounded object with one part of your body and accidentally contact something that’s is at “line” voltage.
If you are using a transformer to provide power to part of a building subject to the NEC, you may be required to do approximately this. And your bathroom receptacles are hopefully GFCI protected and are also fed from a transformer near your house…
> electrostatic shield
You can get a transformer with approximately this, in small sizes, sold for “medical” use, off the shelf at reasonable prices. I have one that I bought from Digikey because it had the right specs, even though I don’t need the shield.
But I haven’t seen one that has fittings intended to integrate it into a Faraday cage. Maybe someone makes it. Admittedly, I have not worked with that many Faraday cages in my life, and I didn’t get to examine the detailed construction of the giant anechoic Faraday cage in which we tested the smaller Faraday cage I was using.
There's no reason you have to connect the secondary to earth at all. This is how a lot of medical equiment (under IEC 60601) and test equipment (under IEC 61010) is designed. If earthing it makes everything worse, just don't do it.
The NEC might or might not have something silly to say about that, but when you have a giant custom-built Faraday cage, I think most people will be understanding that you might choose to call it "equipment" (and thus, for example, claim that 61010 applies) rather than "building wiring" (so not NFPA 70).
You can also earth things in some really weird ways. My favorite was to connect the secondary to earth through a 12V bidirectional TVS diode. Apparently this stops a lot of nuisance issues while still allowing serious currents to flow. Unfortunately, you want a bigass TVS to do this, and those are rather capacitive. So you still end up with RF issues. (No, you cannot use this to make an arc fault detector. Or at least, I couldn't do it.)
Electrostatically shielded transformers are not really stock items. You will usually have to get them custom-built and they will usually end up as expensive, higher-performing C-type cores. Shoutout to Triad Magnetics for being very nice to work with as a custom magnetics vendor on that horrid project even though the project was cursed and we ended up going with someone else (which we should have known a lot earlier and not strung you guys along, but engineering and management had different aims there...), right up until it got cancelled.
You are talking about industrial applications. Devices running in residential or commercial environments should be better designed. Proper shielding and grounding is a much better solution than a Y capacitor.
Line filters are everywhere. They're generally required to pass conducted emissions requirements. They aren't going away soon, and our fault protection devices need to work with them, not blindly ignore how we've been meeting EMC requirements for decades.
I thought it's the other way around. There are standards for line filters for precisely this case. The device is either non conforming or damaged or the power in this home is out of tolerance in one way or another.
Fair enough but it’s not the best example to use to introduce GFCI.
Something like this?
“Though you rarely will see your bathroom GFCI trip (unless you’re dropping the hair dryer into the bath water), some kinds of larger, more complicated machinery can cause nuisance trips.”
And that GFCI might be the only thing keeping you from being electrocuted every time the curling iron won't heat up. Standing in a puddle touching a metal pipe casually confused by why it sometimes tingles.
> Specifically if your GFCI in the bathroom (or anywhere) keeps tripping it’s because something is wrong with your wiring or something plugged into the outlet.
Or the outlet itself. Some outlets end up false tripping, and need to be replaced. Probably happens with GFCI breakers, if that's where the GFCI is. Of course, normal breakers sometimes false trip and need replacement, too.
Yeah. Sounds like there something wrong with the authors wiring or curling iron.
We have had whole-house GFCIs (or RDCs as we call them here) in the NZ electrical standards for 20 years, they seem to be pretty reliable, I've never seen them trip for without a reason.
I have seen them trip on devices that were barely faulty. Devices which worked fine on a regular outlet, but would trip a RCD.
The residual current rating in NZ is 30mA. The proposed standard here would be 5mA. This seems to be one of the primary things the author in the article is calling out, that for especially heavy draws, 5mA is too low a trip point.
Certain devices will trip GFCIs/RCDs somewhat frequently. Toasters, for example: if a the bread touches against the live heating wires it will trip. Cordless kettles will do it if the contacts on the base gets wet or gunked up. The motor in our swimming pool cover sometimes trips after heavy rain (or excessive splashing) if it gets flooded.
TFA explains that it’s all relative. Trying to detect 5ma of current going to the wrong place under a 48-amp load may be impossible and will probably result in constant false trips. Probably also in the middle of the night, leaving your car not charged in the morning.
> Trying to detect 5ma of current going to the wrong place under a 48-amp load may be impossible
It's actually kinda easy - the way GFCIs work is pretty neat.
You pass the live and neutral through the same magnetic field sensor. So long as none of the current is escaping to earth, you get an equal current in each direction and the total magnetic field is zero.
The problem is you can get a 5mA leak to ground because of, say, condensation inside a socket. And ripping out your house's wiring in search of that is a lot of expense to deal with a relatively minor danger.
definitely true with dimmable LEDs. I have noticed that dimmable LEDs die in a year when running on a GFCI circuit. Solution is to find the junction and branch the switch/dimmer before the GFCI.
I have been convinced for years that the National Electrical Code is written first and foremost to serve the interests of electrical wiring device manufacturers, and not the needs of end users, or even the safety of end users.
The way the AFCI mess played out lost them so much credibility that it is hard to take this seriously as being about "safety" any more.
Search online for "AFCI" along with any appliance that has a motor in it, like a vacuum, refrigerator, or hair dryer. You'll get pages of posts of people asking why the appliances keep tripping the AFCI breaker.
The reason why is that those devices create arcs, and AFCI breakers are completely unable to handle them. Some regions require AFCI breakers, so a significant portion of household appliances will occasionally trip the breaker.
The worst part is that it isn't particularly consistent, so your fridge could last for years without tripping it, but as brushes wear the arcs they regularly create increase the chances of a trip, until one day you find that all your food is ruined, because the AFCI breaker tripped at an inopportune time.
Fortunately, my fridge trips the AFCI very reliably, so I was able to detect it before losing any food. All I had to do to fix it was make a few passes with the hot wire through a ferrite bead, right before it connects to the AFCI breaker. It completely blocks the arc-created RF that the AFCI is detecting, disabling the functionality of the AFCI, all without any code violations, because while the AFCI is required, the ferrite bead isn't prohibited.
I upgraded all of my breakers to AFCI+GFCI. Worked flawlessly so far (about 6 months in).
The only two times where my AFCI tripped were 1) my blow-dryer shorted out due to a worn out cable (WAI) and 2) the PSU on my PC started tripping the AFCI (sent back to the manufacturer and got a replacement). So in both cases, at least for me, the AFCIs caught real problems.
Not a single trip of the GFCI function so far including vacuum, fride, and various power tools (and it's great peace of mind to have this with kids in the house).
All good for the average user. You cannot run a saw or other corded power tool off an AFCI breaker. it trips _constantly_. This is a problem because NEC wants AFCI/GFCI in all rooms with concrete floors, like garages. This means you basically put those plugs in to pass and then pull them out again.
Basically they mandated hardware that is way more expensive than what it replaces and reliably gets falsely triggered by normal usage that the circuit is supposed to support.
AFCI stands for "Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter", a type of device that detects arcing (sparks) on a circuit and will shut things down if the "arc strength" is above some arbitrary threshold. The main risk from arcing is fire. Compare GFCIs, "Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters", which detect when some current supplied to the device is going missing (i.e., returning through a different path involving ground) and shut things down if the missing current exceeds some level in milliamps. The main risk from a ground fault is electrocution.
It turns out that detecting arcs is hard. Really, really hard. The window between "normal operation of some random crap that's plugged in" and "bad stuff" is tiny, or even nonexistent. (Old tools with brushed motors arc during normal operation!) I worked on an arc fault detector once, as part of a larger project. We never got the thing working before the whole project got canned. It was consistently the one piece of the project that I was reporting to management as "We have no idea how to make this work. The rest of this thing, we have a plan for (maybe a bad plan, and maybe we won't execute well; such is life in R&D), but the arc detector doesn't work, we have no plan for it, and no idea how to make a plan." And we were doing a next-generation version of a device already shipping — we should have had a working arc detector right out of the gate! But it didn't work.
(The tests for arcs, incidentally, were insane. We used the test procedure from the previous-generation product, a special board made up with various "simulated arc strengths". Then we set up a low-kV range power supply, put on those giant rubber gloves that you see in cartoons, and moved in a pointy probe, by hand, toward the right spot on the test board until it arced over. This was less than reliable, and rather difficult to automate. (My proposal to automate testing by changing the intern's name to "Automated" was not accepted.) It turns out that the arc signature is deeply dependent on the exact test method you use. We had another fixture designed in-house involving a variable-distance spark gap made with two adjustable spheres. Its results were completely and totally different than the other board, so we just pretended it had never existed.)
So arc detection is difficult. It will not surprise you then to learn that the first generation of AFCI devices and breakers did not actually work correctly. They were notorious for tripping randomly and generally not things you wanted to have in your life. They were also expensive (probably paying more for the testing than for the materials cost). The NEC mandated their use anyway. Their reliability was so ridiculously poor that there was general agreement among everyone that that part of the NEC should just be ignored and standard or GFCI devices used instead. Did the NEC care? No, they insisted that AFCIs were important. Even though they didn't work. This made a lot of people start to distrust them.
We're on second or third generation AFCI devices now, and they seem to have improved a lot. They don't really false trigger anymore. But do they correctly trigger, or did they just desensitize them so they don't do anything at all? I haven't tested, and I don't want to!
It's also worth considering the risks mitigated by AFCIs. Arc faults at 120V are not really that common, and when serious arc faults do occur, they usually result in an electrical fire. Fire is certainly very bad, but I'd say it's a lot less dangerous than the nearly-instant death by electrocution that GFCIs prevent. (Note that at 240V arc faults are much more common, and up at 480V they are straight-up lethal in their own right. DO NOT FUCK WITH 480.)
So the NEC mandated AFCI devices that caused major hassle, mitigated minor risks, and cost a lot of money. That annoyed people. This came on the heels of them requiring GFCIs everywhere (same issue; ground faults in non-wet locations are not really a major risk with North American style TN-C-S earthing, but at least GFCIs work). That annoyed people. And then they had required TR receptacles everywhere (which, personally, I consider of very little benefit, though I won't argue with anyone who disagrees; at least it's obvious what's going on there), when that technology was also half baked (seriously, early TR receptacles were horrid to use, though they are pretty decent now). That annoyed people.
You can see the trend. A lot of crappy technologies were made mandatory at our expense for minor to modest gains in safety, high losses in reliability, and extreme costs in annoyance. Thus, the question: who are these guys really looking out for? Us? Manufacturers? Insurers?
> Old tools with brushed motors arc during normal operation!
I have all of my grandfathers old Craftsman steel-shell electric power tools with brushed motors. I put a new cord on one of the hand drills a few years ago (the old cloth covered cords are terrifying) and tried using it for a project. That thing throws sparks like a Zippo.
When driving a car with internal combustion engine, you pay a lot (in Europe especially a lot!) taxes in the gas price. This means that all the people driving EV would (so far) avoid this tax and this means that this must be put to an end!!!!1
So this move might be also about taxing the EVs (just a tin-foil-hat wearing conspiracy theory maker here, don't take my words too seriously)
I think the NEC is beholden to the people who make this stuff. Right now I have a 14-50R in my garage (I don't even use it, I have it shut off at the panel; I don't have an EV, this is just new construction). The standard breaker is $18.98 right now at the big orange store. The GFCI version they're trying to make mandatory is $190.68.
I think that says all you need to know.
(And before anyone says they must cost that much more to make... they do not. I have designed GFI and AFI devices. You need to add a circuit board, yes, a pretty rugged one. The ordinary breaker is all mechanical. But that does not cost $170 more to do.)
Basic GFCIs are also around the same price in the US.
The discussion in the article is about mandating that weirdo breakers also contain GFCI/AFCI components. Unsurprisingly, manufacturers charge a lot more for the oddball parts.
(My load center's vendor also seems to be particularly bad with the price gouging, but I didn't exactly choose it, so in that respect it's perfectly representative of what gets chosen for people.)
That is amazing price for something that millions of will be made each year. Just calculate how many of them are needed in total and then take replacement even every 50 years or something. It scales to large number needed.
Indeed, and this mass-produced stuff is pretty simple compared to an IC chip. Who are handcrafting these devices, blonde virgin maidens at night under the shine of a full moon? :D
Don’t worry - in my country (Finland) they already thought of that and instead of the emissions based annual road tax, which would of course be zero, they managed to add a ‘tax on driving power’ to electric cars.
Notwithstanding that electricity for any use already has a per KWh tax added. Plus sales tax of course.
Well, in Italy the road tax has always been on engine power.
Indeed the VAT is a nuisance, actually the most regressive form of taxation possible: rich people with enough income who can afford to spend only a fraction of it, end up paying VAT accordingly; while low income citizens who have to spend all their salary end up with an additional, significant tax burden on their whole net income.
Yes, EV chargers typically include their own fault detection of course. But regulations here (Australia/NZ) require a GCFI ("Type B RCD") to be installed, even if it's redundant.
Some chargers (older ones) don’t have protection against DC flowing back from the car due to a faulty car transformer built in. So we had to add one ourselves. I think that is the type B that was mentioned in sibling comment.
My pet peeve here is that the electrical code has done nothing about what I think is the actual coming danger in outdoor devices: GFCI in the wrong places. It’s very common to install a supposedly water resistant box 6" above grade outside, stick a “WR” (weather resistant) GFCI in the box, and call it a day. This, of course, provides absolutely to protection against problems caused by the receptacle or the wiring getting wet! Code should require GFCI protection indoors, or at least upstream in a NEMA 3R or better enclosure.
Similarly, inadequately waterproofed wire splices in boxes in the ground are very common. Code should, but does not, require GFCI protection on these circuits.
IMO outdoor circuits, with few exceptions, should be GFCI protected, possibly with the thresholds set based on circuit rating. So a 200A circuit could have a threshold of a few amps, and a 15 or 20A outdoor receptacle or lighting circuit should have a threshold no higher than 30mA.
And of course the wires coming out of an EVSE should be protected at 30mA or less, which they already are. And the wires coming in should be protected based on circuit rating if the EVSE itself is in a location exposed to water.
As an electrical eningeer I can't help but thinking: Yeah then don't run equipment/infastructure that is so badly designed and/or in such bad shape that it produces 5mA of fault current at startup. It isn't as if it is unknown how to test and prevent such things.
If your device is constantly tripping your GFCI, that was a decision some bean counter (or totally clueless contractor) was willing to make, not a god given inherent fact of the universe. All that you know is that the think could be saving your life as the fault current has to go somewhere that isn't back into the system. But of course now the US has an unelected car manufacturer in government, so it is important to let them reduce the quality of things so they can make more money. The actual solution is to test products before they hit the market and test/overhaul dangerously wrong wiring in houses.
If your gas safety valve keeps shutting down the gas because your gas bottle is heating up next to the flame, vuess what: the solution isn't to remove the safety valve.
I would be very interested in "stray inductance and capacitance" are meant to produce a 5mA flow out of your circuit.
Or let's phrase it like that: If the proper cables are used and if the wiring isn't absolute dogshit next to other absolute dogshit the cited reason isn't the reason.
Try to induce 5mA of foreign circuit into a cable on purpose and you will see what I mean. Measuring equipment exists so we don't need to guess here..
The issue is more that manufactureres calculated with a 30mA threshold for ages and if they did a bad job, they produced equipment that just barely made that threshold. Typically such norm changes are known well ahead, I am more familar with European norms, but changes like these are known a decade ahead.
So it isn't as if manufacturers of such equipment are suddenly surprised by new regulations. And if the new rule starts to work that should only affect newly built unints (or units where the electrical installation is renewed). So if your EV charger trips the GFCI because of bad electrical wiring, thr wiring likely had to be replaced due to new norms anyways..
Why the thresholds for different areas differ is usually a mix of historical reasons, lobbying and a "we didn't get around to that yet". It is hard to answer such questions in isolation, maybe marine equipment has other maintenance cycles, crazier cabling requirements, maybe there are fire suppression measures that allow to relax that requirement more, maybe it doesn't make sense at all.
As someone who has read through nearly 100 GB of norm PDFs I can assure you that just comparing two thresholds in isolation is practically worthless if you ignore the other differences in the rules.
My guess is that it is likely from Y caps filtering common-mode noise. They are great for filtering EMI to pass strict emissions regs, so it is easy to use them liberally.
I'll admit I don't know what kind of currents they see, but 5mA on transients wouldn't be particularly surprising. There is also the factor of how sensitive the GFCI is.
Over 100nF of unbalanced Y-caps is needed at 60Hz/120V to see 5mA gnd current. That would be a big Y capacitor (2.2n or lower is common) and they’re usually used in a balanced configuration which would reduce it further. If a Y capacitor fails on one leg, you have a problem. If a Y capacitor fails is only present on one leg, you have a problem.
And if it’s resistive leakage, that’s almost a watt of dissipation - also huge and probably a short in a cable and potentially a fire risk.
5mA is a massive threshold for well designed devices
It would be fast transients that are in the kHz to MHz and over 120V. Thats why I wonder about the sensitivity of the GCFI. Can it tolerate 5mA for 50ns?
I think the idea is that these low ‘trigger levels’ on these new and mandatory devices will erroneously trip on a semi-regular basis, because EVs are often charged in adverse conditions. The erroneous trips will then be inconvenient enough so as to dissuade people from buying EVs.
To elaborate a bit more, it sounds like the new rule would require the GFCI breaker (which requires a manual reset) to be more sensitive than the required protection already built into the EV charger (which auto-resets). So at any hint of a potential problem, the GFCI would trip first, before the EV charger could respond, forcing a manual reset.
The solution is easy: rip the GFCI/AFCI breaker out and put a normal one in. Keep the code-compliant one in a plastic sack and reinstall it before you sell or get inspected for another reason.
Used to be the advice was to put in a hardwired charger and bypass this entirely, but now they’re ruining that. This is one of those cases where having a screwdriver and a phone with YouTube is a huge advantage.
Insurance (typically) covers negligence, but not intentional bad acts. Put a non GFCI breaker in post inspection (assuming you are comfortable doing so). “Breaker failed and I replaced it.” Change it before home inspection when you sell.
“It kept flicking off every time I plugged my car in! Got a new one and it did the same thing, finally the helpful guy at the hardware store suggested using this one and now it works fine!”
I’d argue you aren’t taking on much fire risk anyway. Your medical insurance would probably be more interested than your home insurance. Also, don’t bathe with a plugged in car charger. In case that needed to be said…
Even that would probably be fine so long as you were only bathing with the plug end. The charger doesn't enable until it's established through the low power pins that it's connected to a car and has negotiated the charging parameters.
Absolutely. This is well within my comfort level for messing with inside my private home - I understand the underlying system, the problem they’re trying to solve, and why it’s a bad solution.
Certainly don’t go screwing around with mains electricity until you can articulate all of the above, and have an electrician friend show you how to make proper connections and such. But for most of HN… it wouldn’t be hard at all. Stripping insulation off 6/3 wire would be the hardest part of the process for most people here to install a whole new outlet for their EV. Changing a breaker is nearly child’s play.
Anyone that owns an EV currently won't be affected. New building codes usually allow for grandfathering in existing installations until the next time there's renovation requiring an update to the building's electrical.
This only affects new builds after the codes come into force. EVSE manufacturers will just have to adapt.
It says in the article that there is a comment period next month. NEC could backpedal / adjust the requirement to accommodate this particular use case. Failing that, states could create their own exception to the NEC. Failing that, EVSE manufacturers will need to change their product designs.
The TLDR is EV chargers want an exemption from ground fault protection because they have ground fault protection built in. Lots of devices have built in protections for various electrical faults, but we still put them upstream because one of the things we are protecting against is the device itself faulting.
It is like the people holding this view don't understand that Wish.com and Aliexpress exist.
So then what’s protecting the protection? And that protection? At some point you have to stop. EVSEs have to be UL rated and conform to the J1772 spec. Their entire reason for existing is safety, and they basically don’t do anything else. They don’t modify the delivered power in any way. I guess they have a plug that’s rated for 1000s of connection cycles, but that’s really a safety thing too. Putting another GFCI behind that is a silly waste of time, money and another point of failure.
Look out your window at the power pole, you'll see a transformer. That has breakers, differential relays, and other protections.
> And that protection?
Substations have RTUs and SCADA systems that are constantly monitoring everything for faults. They have cool shit like oil breakers that can kill even the large inputs to the substation.
> At some point you have to stop.
No, you don't. The protections go all the way back to the power generation site.
This must be facetious? A GFCI breaker in a house's electrical panel and any breakers present in the transformer on the utility pole are protecting against _very_ different scenarios -- the breaker in the house is to stop someone from accidentally electrocuting themselves, but the breaker on the pole won't even notice an amount of current that could easily kill someone.
Nothing upstream of your electrical panel is sensitive enough to save you the way GFCI outlets are intended to. They aren't even sensitive enough to tell if your whole house is going up because of an electrical fire, they're there for downed power lines etc you getting zapped in the tub is barely a blip to those protection systems.
Yeah even putting aside the Temu specials, a belt and suspenders approach to not killing people does not deserve the derision this article gives it. The built in ground fault protection is there to protect the equipment not humans. In the real world stuff that “shouldn’t happen” eventually happens.
Uhm... Why would it be a problem? A car is literally floating (electrically), so any ground fault would be within the charging circuit.
My charger is connected via a NEMA 14-50 outlet, that uses regular GFCI breakers in the panel. They have not ever tripped, outside of me testing the outlet.
It's more of a problem for people and chargers at non single family residences. If the charger at a shopping mall, an apartment building or duplex trips the person charging is less likely to completely unable to go flip the breaker to resolve the issue. If it's at an apartment or mall it might be down for a week or more before someone bothers to go fix it.
This can be alleviated by adding a subpanel within the garage space. NEC/NFPA doesn't require GFCI on the connection between the main panel and the subpanel.
Doesn't really solve the issue for people in apartments or near businesses that provide level 2 chargers. Those users are still not going to have access to the panel to reset a GFCI breaker or likely even know where it is unless it's right there at the charger itself.
> … it proposes to require the same exact ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection that makes you push that little button on your bathroom outlet every time the curling iron won’t heat up.
Specifically if your GFCI in the bathroom (or anywhere) keeps tripping it’s because something is wrong with your wiring or something plugged into the outlet.
It took some restraint to not use all caps in part of that sentence.
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