B/c the LEDs require a driver which runs on DC [the better case is constant driven], the space constraints are too high and there is not enough room for heat dissipation which in the US kills the driver (as running on 110/120AC is less efficient), and in Europe it tends to kill the LEDs because they get to be overdriven, but the driver dissipates less heat. The power factor on all them tends to be atrocious, usually 0.5phi. They tend to quite noisy, esp. when it comes to EMF. In short there is not enough space to have a decent LED driver along with enough space for heat dissipation for the LEDs (usually only 15%, being generous, of the energy will be emitted as light. The rest is heat, so if you see 8W of LED, more than 6.5W is just heat)
Pretty much almost all LEDs you can buy in a retrofit case are almost guaranteed to be overdirven to show better numbers and be 'brighter'. Near ceiling larger fixtures can be designed for LEDs. They tend to have an actual 15-30k hours lifespan.
Dimming the LEDs is the next atrocity, esp. when it comes to chopping the sine wave. The LED dirvers have to work with the chopped sine wave and detect how much it has been chopped to reduce the current or the PWM.
About the AA(A) and the TV. I can control the TV w/ bluetooth and an app but I find that incovenient. However NiMH nominal voltage is 1.2V which fits the 1.5 of the alkaline batteries. It's good enough already. So yes, it takes different chemistry unless the remote controls provide built-in step-up/step-down converters, effectively variable operational voltage.
Most of this problem becomes a non-issue with the advent of LED filament bulbs. That's pretty close to the holy grail IMO.
And besides, making everyone change every fixture in their house in order to take advantage of LED would just have meant it never happened. E26/E27 bulbs are going to be around for a while.
Just lots of LEDs in series with higher target forward voltage. Still, LEDs are current driven devices and quite temperature sensitive, and still need a driver. The issues are not that different.
>That's pretty close to the holy grail IMO.
I guess we have a very different idea about the grail, then.
We probably do. I like that filament bulbs have much smaller driver requirements and much better heat dissipation, and I can stuff 100W bulbs into enclosures without worry. The only thing I don't love is that they are somewhat more prone to flicker. Not enough that my eyes notice, but some might.
One of them has gone in the past 10 years. So they must be around that lower bound by now.
Tbf I don't think subsequent ones have been too bad.
Re your TV.
Ok your TV might be, my TV isn't, and I have plenty of other remotes, and then there's clocks and weighing scales and kids toys and all the other things that use aa batteries.
> I think it's more a case of enshitification.The first LEDs I got were metal bodied.
The heavier the better when it comes to such LEDs. Yes, it's possible to make them work okayish, and control the temps (LEDs should not go over 60C) but that would show poor lumens (and watts) on the box, and be expensive.
B/c the LEDs require a driver which runs on DC [the better case is constant driven], the space constraints are too high and there is not enough room for heat dissipation which in the US kills the driver (as running on 110/120AC is less efficient), and in Europe it tends to kill the LEDs because they get to be overdriven, but the driver dissipates less heat. The power factor on all them tends to be atrocious, usually 0.5phi. They tend to quite noisy, esp. when it comes to EMF. In short there is not enough space to have a decent LED driver along with enough space for heat dissipation for the LEDs (usually only 15%, being generous, of the energy will be emitted as light. The rest is heat, so if you see 8W of LED, more than 6.5W is just heat)
Pretty much almost all LEDs you can buy in a retrofit case are almost guaranteed to be overdirven to show better numbers and be 'brighter'. Near ceiling larger fixtures can be designed for LEDs. They tend to have an actual 15-30k hours lifespan.
Dimming the LEDs is the next atrocity, esp. when it comes to chopping the sine wave. The LED dirvers have to work with the chopped sine wave and detect how much it has been chopped to reduce the current or the PWM.
About the AA(A) and the TV. I can control the TV w/ bluetooth and an app but I find that incovenient. However NiMH nominal voltage is 1.2V which fits the 1.5 of the alkaline batteries. It's good enough already. So yes, it takes different chemistry unless the remote controls provide built-in step-up/step-down converters, effectively variable operational voltage.