Hah yes, I just looked again at this headline, thanks for the clarification. Edited to add: Ramps are highly aromatic wild onions that are foraged in natural areas. They're celebrated at festivals throughout West Virginia as heralding the arrival of spring.
Good insight, thanks. The article title would be clearer with a reference to foraging or wild onions. It's not obvious at first that it's on Serious Eats.