How did they make the concentrate without destroying all the subtle things I hear that wine is supposed to contain (and the yeast)? Did they boil it? Reverse osmosis? Vacuum?
There's almost certainly wild yeast on the grapes themselves; and in any case yeast is more or less omnipresent, so you'll have wild yeast all over your own kitchen at home. The usual problem is preventing things from fermenting, not causing them to ferment.
Even cheap alcohol is much much better than it used to be. Mulled wine was so popular back in the day because wine was barely drinkable. Cocktails exist for the same reason (and that’s why classic recipes are so sweet). It’s a similar thing with classic “ethnic” dishes—they are so rich and flavorful because they needed to cover the taste of marginal meat.