I got good results with Hetzner. But it takes some time to set up a server that complies with all of Google requirements. Also, I once inherited a spammy IP address and took me some time to remove it from spam databases.
I think the advantage with Hetzner cloud is that you rent the IP address separately. If you get an IP with a bad reputation you can stop renting it and get a new one.
Edit: I have not actually tried changing the IP, its just an idea. Also, I hope the spammers don't start doing this and spoil it for everyone else.
Hetzner does not open port 25 outbound (SMTP) until you have paid your first invoice. I therefore believe them to handle this problem somewhat seriously.
Yes, basically that. I set up mail servers for a company in 2001-2008 and then it was way easier. I tried to do it again five years ago, for my personal server and quickly found the landscape changed a lot. But it is doable.
Fair dos. I do run my own mailserver and although I have had problems I haven't found it impossible. The complexity in running a mailserver has for sure increased since 2008 but it hasn't seen the same level of complexity expansion that, for example, making a web site has.
I do use SPF but I don't use DKIM or DMARC. On the inbound side, I do use greylisting and anti-spam. I don't tend to change my config between releases of debian stable.
