* Average counts of emojis, messages, acronyms, etc. could be misused by a human reader to determine things like age, religion, or ethnicity. If we frequently use poop emojis, we could be considered immature. If we frequently use anger emojis, we could be considered hot-tempered. If we frequently use sad emojis we could be considered to have depression.
* Counts of specific words or phrases in each language could be misused to convey physical and mental health problems that may be affecting an individual.
* The median length of a user's messages not including URLs, things in quotes, or tick blocks could be used to assess whether the user tends to be concise or wordy.
That data could be sold and could make you unemployable because their statistics indicate that you're overly angry, when the anger emoji was just your shtick at your last job.
Even if you're using the data just to see when people are working, if you have a team of employees that are productive but don't communicate much, that data could be misused. If their manager doesn't get along with the team and wants to move to a different one, when a higher level manager is cutting headcount, the team manager could say that the team has always been lazy and never listens to them, so the higher level manager fires the manager and his entire team, based on data provided by the analysis of the IMs and the manager's account. Since the data isn't a true indicator, it shouldn't even be used as supporting evidence of lack of work.
> It doesn’t say that the global administrator does not have access to the message content.
Slack also allows administrators to view deleted content, etc.
Slack used to let users see who those admins were in certain places; if that's still true, then finding out who those people are may give insight into who has the ultimate form of political power.
I need to use SD cards for my camera and RPis. That's a significant amount of users that would buy Macs, even if you don't use them.
> and have gone all-in on USB-C
The move to Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C seemed to be hinged on the assumption that all new products would be USB-C. The prior removal of the headphone jack[1] and replacement of the lightning-adapter airbuds included with new iPhones set precedent to allow them to continue to simplify. But there's a big difference between (a) providing a replacement that effectively works the same way and (b) having a market based on being best and svelte, but expecting that the average customer can and will buy replacement lanky adapters and big ugly hubs that get in the way (especially when the cheaper ones can cause more interference[2]).
Apple once had a "Think Different" campaign, and perhaps that transmogrified to "Be the Change" in the 2010s. "Think Different" was about producing the best product, with a quality product that worked better, not about forcing customers to take on the burden of a mess, making their lives more difficult and looking out-of-control. "Be the Change" is activism which often causes problems for some, with a goal of things becoming better. "Think Different" works better in product design and development. "Be the Change" is for Human Resources and Marketing.
> Please just do MagSage + USB-C, so I can maintain my one-cable-for-everything, making traveling lighter and simpler. Here's my counter argument to all those that love MagSafe: makes traveling a huge hassle, forcing me to carry a special charge brick that only works for ONE device. In 2021 going forward, I will flat refuse to spend money on anything that doesn't use USB-C or Qi charging
It's expected to have Thunderbolt 3 (in form of USB-C) on it. I'd assume that they will allow charging the computer from it, as that's part of the spec of Thunderbolt 3; I'm not 100% on that, but as keeping that capability would be part of the Thunderbolt 3 spec which includes Thunderbolt, USB, DisplayPort, and 100W power input[3]. It just wouldn't charge as quickly.
This MagSafe will probably be the Qi-supporting MagSafe[3][4] which can be 15W for faster charging or 7.5W for Qi and will probably support the ring chargers, probably under the touchpad, given design choices from existing charging stands[5].
> I can now travel with a single 2xUSB-C power brick
And you would probably be able to do that, but it will charge faster with MagSafe.
> I am all for removing the TouchBar
Yep. I couldn't easily change brightness or volume when in context specific mode with the settings I had by default, and it was distracting.
* no powered filtration, aeration, and optimally without a water heater
* little if any sunlight
* water temperature in tank may range 18.3C to 24.9C through each year
* 1 or more aquatic creatures, preferably one creature living a few or more years, removed within a day if they die and replaced within 3 weeks
* no water changes after 2-3 months of stabilization initially
* no more than a few hours of initial setup
* little maintenance required to sustain itself as described other than topping tank with inexpensive bottled spring water
* high probability of sustaining itself within these constraints for many years
I read and experienced that smaller tanks are harder to setup with 10cm of sand possibly needed for Walstad method that size tank[3].
In "Ecology of the Planted Aquarium" and on her site, Walstad writes that she had success with 3.8L and 7.6L tanks using her Dry Start Method[4] to setup the plants, and then hosted shrimp. However, as interesting a shrimp are, my experience with ghost shrimp was that they were inexpensive, looked lively, and then died suddenly within weeks. She speaks of red cherry shrimp, which I've not found locally. I recommend her site[5] which has a lot of information about Planted Aquariums along with the latest corrections for her book; she also describes how she bred guppies in 12 gallon plastic tubs without any filtration or aeration[6] outdoors 15.5C-25.5°F.
10-12L is too small. Get a 20 or a 40L, use aqua soil instead of all gravel, heavily plant it, work less. I prefer to keep shrimp, boraras some otos and one or two clithon snails (one per 20L).
I have a 17L tank that effectively has maybe 10L of water, in which I keep small guppies (offspring from my larger tanks) until the outgrow it. It's sitting on a bookshelf in the hallway, completely unheated. I use a regular Philips 13 W 4000 K LED (around 1.500 Lumen) mounted in an Ikea desk lamp as lighting. For filtering I use a backpack filter (AquaClear) filled with ceramic filter material with high surface-to-volume ratio and some fine polyester wool. I prefer these types of filters for small tanks as they hang outside of the tank and dont't use up any space inside.
The most important thing for a healthy aquascape is to have many healthy plants, with some fast-growing ones that will take up any excess nutrients. For an open tank I recommend water lentils (they can get out of control fast though) or swim ferns like Limnobium Laevigatum or Salvinia Auriculata (beware of the shade they create). In my tank I also keep Hydrocotyle Tripartita, which looks great in an open tank that can be viewed from above, grows fast and forms a nice carpet that doesn't grow too high(unless it doesn't get enough light, in which case it will grow mostly vertically). I also keep two Echinidorae Ocelot, which are really easy and form a dense system of roots. Finally, I have some Limnobium Laevigatum as a floating plant and a small carpet of Hemianthus callitrichoides Cuba (HCC), which is rather complicated to keep and requires good CO2 injection (I use a plastic bottle with a yeast-sugar mix and a small upturned glas bowl in the tank to set CO2 at 25 mg/l). Having some root-forming plants is important as the roots will keep the ground from becoming anaerobic, which can lead to a foul-smelling aquarium. As substrate I use volcanic gravel below and regular gravel (2-4mm grain size) above, possibly with some nutrient-rich soil above (this will help e.g. with HCC but isn't required). For a small tank I'd go for 3-5 cm of substrate at most. You can have more but you'll need to ensure you have root-forming plants in most areas that keep the substrate aereated. I fertilize with micro- & macro-nutrient fertilizers every couple of days. Lighthing is turned on for 11 hours. I feed the fish (12 small, not fully grown guppies) once a day and am careful not to overfeed. I also keep 10-20 ramshorn snails (they can reproduce quite fast but if you don't overfeed your fish their numbers stabilizes quickly).
Sakura shrimp are quite easy to keep as well and will reproduce without much effort, larger fish (even fully grown Guppies) will see the small ones as food though and stress the large ones enough to kill them, so beware of putting them in a tank with fish.
In the first 2 weeks you'll see a lot of brown silica algae form everywhere, which is normal, usually followed by some green algea. Which types of algea you'll get depends heavily on your water parameters though (hardness, mineral content and contaminants), I have hard, nutrient-rich water and get mostly green algea, other people see brush or black algea instead. After 4-6 weeks they should mostly disappear as the plants start to grow rapidly and take up most of the nutrients in the water, starving the algae.
So to summarize:
- Use lots of healthy plants, at least some of them should be fast-growing (you can remove these later if you don't like them). There should be as many plants as possible, while making sure they don't shade each other. Great fast-growing plants are e.g. stem plants like Hygrophilia Polysperma, Rotala Gia Lai / H'Ra (one of my favorites) or swimming plants like Hydrocotyle Leucocephala (which is not very suitable for small tanks though IMHO). A great carpet-forming plant is e.g. Marsilea Hirsuta, which grows quite well without CO2 and low lighting.
- Don't overfertilize in the beginning, start with 25 % of the recommended dose and work upwards.
- Start with 8 hours of lighting and work your way up to 12 hours during 4-8 weeks.
- Add snails or shrimp after 1-2 weeks and fish after 2-4 weeks (not too many at once). Be sure to select fish that are suitable for nano aquariums (opinions diverge here but IMHO you can easily keep e.g. smaller Guppies in a nano tank as well).
- If the tank develops a serious algae problem (e.g. blue algae) block out all light for 3-4 days, this kills most types of algae and can give plants an advantage as soon as the lighting comes back.
- Only clean the filter when you notice the flow is drastically reduced. Don't wash the filter material with hot water or anything, just press it out in a small bucket/bowl of water from the aquarium until most of the coarse dirt is gone. The filter bacteria are the most important part of your tank, so treat them with respect.
- Have patience, the tank will usually look quite ugly for the first 4-8 weeks, so don't give up easily.
Great advice. I've also had a great experience with fast growing plants such as Limnobium Laevigatum and Sagittaria subulata in the mid/backgroud of nano aquariums. Limnobium being a floating plant is easy to remove, no trimming required. It shades the rest of the aquarium, inhibits algae growth and biofilm because it uses up nutrients and grows like crazy. Sagittaria throws runners everywhere and will eventually fill up your aquarium if left uncontrolled. I cut runners in the foreground every time I change the water to give the other slower plans (crypts and dwarf hairgrass) a chance to grow.
I've used HCC without CO2 but it's rather high maintenance and I don't want to cut shrimp while trimming the carpet. If it's not maintained regulary it it will peel off and start to float, creating a mess. Micranthemum tweediei "Monte Carlo" is probably a better carpeting plant choice than HCC for beginners. My other Iwagumi style aquarium that once had HCC now has a nice "carpet" of Cryptocoryne Parva after several years. It takes a lot of time to grow but it's quite beautiful once established.
Likewise. My brother drinks it (he also drinks the water from when you boil cabbages, hes a strange unit.). I don't get that effect from the cookies, likely because its a fairly small amount across a lot of cookies.
While Apple isn't right on everything, they are a business, and they have the responsibility to decide what they will provide and what they won't.
If they can't change X because it will screw over critical application group Y, then developers can complain as much as they want until they have some practical way to deal with that. If they were constantly screwing over Y, where Y was different depending on the problem, they could eventually screw up all of the apps, users, and developers.
These are people that are not Apple developers however, they're cross platform developers, and support Mac OS so long as the burden is not too great (or simply allow others to do the work of supporting Mac OS in some cases).
> Free users don't care if you tell them to fuck off.
You don't have to and shouldn't respond in any specific time period. Even if you're the sole maintainer of a critical project and you imagine the world wants your head, the world has to wait sometimes.
However, users may abandon projects where support tickets go untended, maybe even writing a post about it in the process[1], so try to respond when you can, unless you've abandoned the project.
As a representative for a FOSS project or even a bystander commenting on a PR, respond professionally and succinctly.
If you shouldn't accept a PR, don't.
If it's a request that seems hostile to the project, and you have time, either leave it for a little while to cool off, try to serve it with professionalism without getting off-topic, or at worst close it.
If needed, add a "code of conduct"[2] so that you can "encourage a pleasant and productive environment by responding to disruptive behavior in a fast, fair way"[3]. Note that instituting one before it's needed, while seeming proactive, may put off some users.
If you screw-up, apologize briefly, then fix it or move on.
2. Apple M1, though the Intel 10875H is pretty much the same perf (though at 3x the power usage)
3. Only Intel uses this, so whatever Intel's fastest chip on this process is.
That said, it varies by use cases, and M1 leans heavily on accelerators so has big wins in some and big losses in others when compared the 4900H or 10875H, which are closer to each other in single threaded benchmarks.
So per that the M1 is 8% faster in single-core than the 28W i7-1185G7 (side note: Intel fix your naming yeesh). It would not at all be surprising if Intel claws that back, that's well within "typical" generational IPC gains.
* Average counts of emojis, messages, acronyms, etc. could be misused by a human reader to determine things like age, religion, or ethnicity. If we frequently use poop emojis, we could be considered immature. If we frequently use anger emojis, we could be considered hot-tempered. If we frequently use sad emojis we could be considered to have depression.
* Counts of specific words or phrases in each language could be misused to convey physical and mental health problems that may be affecting an individual.
* The median length of a user's messages not including URLs, things in quotes, or tick blocks could be used to assess whether the user tends to be concise or wordy.
That data could be sold and could make you unemployable because their statistics indicate that you're overly angry, when the anger emoji was just your shtick at your last job.
Even if you're using the data just to see when people are working, if you have a team of employees that are productive but don't communicate much, that data could be misused. If their manager doesn't get along with the team and wants to move to a different one, when a higher level manager is cutting headcount, the team manager could say that the team has always been lazy and never listens to them, so the higher level manager fires the manager and his entire team, based on data provided by the analysis of the IMs and the manager's account. Since the data isn't a true indicator, it shouldn't even be used as supporting evidence of lack of work.